Hiking Mount Rinjani on Lombok: Don’t Make This Mistake! What I Learnt from Climbing Rinjani (and How Others Got It Wrong)
- maxwelltooby2b
- Dec 12, 2024
- 6 min read
Updated: Dec 26, 2024
Mount Rinjani is one of Indonesia’s most iconic hiking destinations, offering breathtaking views and the challenge of summiting an active volcano. Many trekkers, however, make the mistake of sticking to the overcrowded Sembalun route, climbing up and down the same path. While this is the most common itinerary, it misses out on the quieter, greener, and more rewarding Torean trail. Having completed the 2-night, 3-day trek with Rinjani Summer, I discovered the best way to experience Rinjani—and how preparation can make all the difference.
The 2-Night Trek: A Tale of Two Trails
I chose the two-night trek, ascending via Sembalun and descending through Torean, and the contrast between the two trails was stark. The Sembalun ascent was packed with hikers, hot and exposed with little shade, and disappointing in places due to visible rubbish along the trail. It was also steep, congested, and lacked cutbacks, making it a true slog.
The Torean trail, by comparison, was an absolute gem. It wound through a lush green valley dotted with cascading waterfalls, vibrant mossy cliffs, and dramatic landscapes straight out of Jurassic Park. Following a sulphur-yellow creek and encountering almost no other hikers, I felt like I had the mountain to myself. Camping alone in the jungle on the second night, surrounded by nothing but nature, was a magical experience I’ll never forget.
There is also a third route, the Senaru trail, which many trekkers use to ascend or descend Mount Rinjani. While I didn't personally experience this path, it is known for its scenic beauty and is considered a better alternative to the Sembalun route.
Day 1: Gili Trawangan to Tiu Kelep Homestay
My journey began with a transfer from Gili Trawangan, organised by Rinjani Summer. The drive to Tiu Kelep Homestay took about an hour and was included in the tour price.
The homestay was charming, perched in a village above Lombok’s famous Tiu Kelep Waterfall, with plenty of places to grab dinner nearby. After a short drive to an ATM to withdraw cash for tips, I packed my hiking bag with essentials. It’s worth noting that porters on this trek carry communal gear but not your personal belongings, so you’ll need to carry everything you want to take.
Our guide gave a briefing on the route and the days ahead, which left me both excited and a little apprehensive. With an early start planned, I went to bed early to prepare for the adventure.
Day 2: Sembalun Trail to Summit Base Camp
We started the day with breakfast at 6 AM and left the homestay by 7 AM. The 40-minute drive to Sembalun Village was a good chance to meet the other trekkers in our group. There were six of us, hailing from China, Canada, and France.
At Sembalun, we had to complete a medical check and purchase hiking permits, which required a photo of our passports. Some people in other groups had to pay for these separately, so I was glad my tour included them.
The hike began under a blazing sun, with little tree cover to shield us. The trail was crowded, with guides, porters, and trekkers all vying for space on the narrow path. Lunch was a welcome break, served at a mountain shelter with stunning views. We enjoyed chicken, rice, prawn crackers, and cold drinks—Coke and Sprite never tasted so good!
The afternoon trek was steeper, with the lack of cutbacks making it a real grind. The views down the volcano to the sea were incredible, but the trail’s congestion made it hard to fully enjoy. We reached base camp by mid-afternoon, perched above the breathtaking Segara Anak, a turquoise crater lake within the volcano’s caldera.
Base camp was basic but functional. Each group’s porters had set up tents and even makeshift toilet screens (a hole in the ground with a tarp around it). There was also a small shop selling warm drinks and snacks.
The highlight of the day came when the clouds parted late in the afternoon, revealing the summit we’d attempt the next morning. It looked impossibly steep and intimidating. As sunset painted the sky in brilliant hues, a monkey posed on a branch for us, adding to the surreal beauty.
But the magic didn’t end there. By nightfall, the stars lit up the sky in a dazzling display. With no light pollution, the Milky Way was clearly visible, and the sheer number of stars was breathtaking. I took a few quick photos before lying outside my tent, simply enjoying the view. It was a peaceful and fitting end to an unforgettable day.
Summit Day: Climbing to the Top of Rinjani
The day began at 1 AM with a light breakfast of toast and coffee. By 2 AM, we were on the trail, joining a procession of headlamps winding up the mountain. The path quickly turned into a narrow ridge with sheer drops on either side. Thankfully, the darkness hid the full extent of the vertical drops!
The final ascent was the hardest part of the entire trek. The volcanic scree made every step a challenge—two steps forward, one step back. It felt like climbing in sand, and my boots were essential for keeping out debris. Others in sneakers struggled, with sand flooding their shoes and slowing them down.
Reaching the summit just before sunrise was exhilarating. The colours in the sky were mesmerising: glowing red high clouds and low-lying mist accentuating the altitude. From the top, we could see the crater lake below, the surrounding islands, and even Bali’s Mount Agung in the distance. The summit itself was crowded, with everyone scrambling for sunrise photos, so I found a quieter spot a few metres away to savour the moment.
The descent was an adventure in itself. The scree was slippery, and you had two options: take it slow or embrace the slide and hope not to go ass over tit. I definitely did the latter a few times!
Day 2 Continued: Descending via Torean
After breakfast, I began the Torean descent, leaving the crowds of Sembalun behind. The trail to Segara Anak crater lake was peaceful and shaded. The creek we followed was bright yellow, coloured by sulphur from the active volcano Gunung Barujari.
At the lake, I washed off the dust with a much-needed swim. The turquoise water contrasted beautifully with the yellow shores and the smoking volcano cone on the far side. Locals were fishing and camping here, adding a sense of community to this serene spot.
The trail from the lake led through lush valleys with cascading waterfalls and towering cliffs. We stopped at natural hot springs, where the warm water soothed my sore legs.
The final stretch to camp was through dense jungle, crossing streams and navigating narrow paths. By the time we reached our secluded campsite, I was ready for a nap. Dinner was simple but satisfying—nasi goreng and popcorn—and I fell asleep to the sounds of the jungle.
Day 3: The Final Descent to Torean
The final day began with a light breakfast and clear skies. A short hike brought us to a spectacular viewpoint above a towering waterfall, giving a sense of the scale of this incredible landscape.
The descent into the humid jungle was filled with wildlife, including black monkeys swinging noisily overhead. By the time we reached the Torean trailhead, I felt a deep sense of accomplishment. A truck took us back to the homestay, where I collected my belongings and reflected on the adventure.
Tips for Future Trekkers
Choose the Two-Night Trek: The extra time allows for a more relaxed pace and the stunning Torean trail.
Book Early: Permits are limited, so secure your spot well in advance.
Confirm Inclusions: Check if your tour covers the medical check and permits to avoid unexpected expenses.
Budget for Tips: Bring cash—IDR 150–300k for guides and IDR 100–200k for porters.
Pack Smart:
Clothing: Layer up with a woollen knit, down puffer, and waterproof gear.
Footwear: Hiking boots are essential; sneakers won’t cut it on the sandy summit.
Sanitation: Bring wet wipes and spare clothes, as base camp is dusty and basic.
Hiking Mount Rinjani was an adventure of a lifetime, but descending via the Torean trail made it truly unforgettable. Don’t make the mistake of missing out on this hidden gem—you won’t regret it!
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